Whether for a winter of dark nights or for a summer of 24-hour race, essentially means, have some good lights. However, the market is very diverse and potentially confusing. I will try to give the information to all make sense and you choose your perfect match.
What is the perfect light?
We have a few sets to claim 2,600 lumens, so never the night became a brilliant experience. Means these values that we can tread singles faster than ever, although not turn night into day. However, even using 2 light sources, which is what usually uses (handlebar and helmet), we see a small image of what surrounds us, which sometimes makes it difficult to see you inserted into the rest of the landscape, the textures and details of the surface, which is essential for assessing the adhesion.
However, in some wetlands and wooded or with some mist/fog, have light can cause an increased brightness and hinder vision. With stronger lights, in addition to some exaggeration, causes do not concentrate much further than we need for the evaluation of a safe journey. Are useful, then Yes! When we take someone back and if you have more powerful lights that our, we walk in our shadow, which makes it a safe rail in insecure.
As a rule of thumb, anything below 100 lux at 5 m means you’re stumbling around very slowly at all and in all. With 150 lux is enough for a helmet, but to a handlebar is weak at your fingertips. 200 lux is confident enough to walk the half-speed in most strokes, with 300 lux, means you can increase the rhythm correctly in most locations.
Invest in a good set of MTB lights at ebicyclelights.com and beyond the summer, will also serve on a winter night.
What are the key components and how to decide
At the moment the best solution in lighting will be the use of LED’s.
Most of the lights now use LEDS (Light Emitting Diodes), since they produce more light with less power than a conventional light bulb and are much less fragile than HID lamps. Technological advances make that performance fairly and evolve in each new season there are significant improvements. Causes lower prices and so make the choice sometimes was difficult to make it easier to decide.
The lamp body houses the LEDs, optical and electronic circuits. The your design is crucial to reduce overheating, your total weight and quantity of light.
The combination of lenses (in front of the light source) and the reflector (behind) controls the spread of depth and consistency of the enlightenment. The “spot” are great for long range vision at high speeds or use the helmet, but not so good on narrow single track. With more flood light, adding spot’s for example, in order to have more light at the expense of depth.
Have more light, usually lets you know the details as soon and then go faster. However, you have to keep in mind, that to have better surrounding light, for a better understanding of the depth and consistency of the rail, less powerful lights on your helmet and handlebar light “drop” to the detriment of a powerful and unique.
Given that today is a mixture of electronic elements, high operating temperature, powerful batteries, mud, rain and accidents, it is not easy to convey trust. However, the vast majority are the lights available on the market give some credibility and reliability.
If something goes wrong, any post sale charge won’t have any problem replacing, even in internet sales.
A great lamp doesn’t work, if it doesn’t work to put on the handlebar or at your weight while maintaining that annoying sway pointing the wrong way that sometimes what we do. Weak support, with such permanent oscillations in a rocky descent, is a recipe for an accident, or a misplaced lamp/fixed to the helmet, in addition to “drag” the helmet, turns down and if you stay with a huge pain to neck, with constant light path correction.
Make sure you can put the lights where you want and it will make your work in the full. Checks whether the “greater” light will fit in the thickness of your handlebars without putting him in a crazy angle. Most uses clips and spacers, but sometimes a simple o-ring is a great simple solution.
For the helmet, a lamp light and comfortable and safe enough, instead of a pain in the neck. Check if the power cable feed the (existing in some models) is included or if it is optional.
With the led’s, have become lighter and resistant and with lithium batteries (Li-lon) revolutionized the MTB lighting compared to NiMH. Battery efficiency and still lamp will give a lot to talk about, don’t judge it by the size and/or Ah (ampere hour), but by the ability to perform to what were made and ensure all the assumptions referred to above.How much longer the route, more accurate battery. Be able to do a full descent or stopping to fix a mechanical deficiency without worrying if at the end we were isolated in the dark. Negative temperatures also threaten drastically the life of a battery.
Be able to change the power levels required to enable to control the actual battery life, i.e. allow adjusting the light required. Easy to operate, while you’re riding a bike, even with gloves, but be hard to operate accidentally.
It is the most forgotten in the package of lights. There are chargers with USB port to connect via socket or via PC, allowing change lighting levels.
Most current Chargers uses intelligent circuits for a quick initial load, not damaging the battery. However, actual speeds if you’re consistently those who remember the battery 1 hour before the tour.
Separate lights or all-in-one?
Several manufacturers are opting for the option all in one. In addition to make the Assembly easier and more versatile, becomes more “dressed up” with a more personalized configuration, however, sometimes is not compatible with the helmet. Over time, are less up-to-date than the systems modular.
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